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Home Maintenance checklist

Your home is one of the single biggest investments you'll ever make, so be sure you do all you can to care for it. A well-maintained home will usually sell more readily and bring a higher price. It will be more comfortable and regular care reduces unexpected repair work and expenses.

 

The maintenance schedule I have presented here is a guide for you to follow. It may appear intimidating at first glance, so it might help if you divide the list over a couple of months.

Nook ‘n’ cranny can perform a visual maintenance inspection for you and will cover many of the items listed below for a reasonable fee. It is recommended to have this service performed every two to three years. 

• Check and clean or replace furnace air filter.
• Shut down and clean furnace humidifier (if applicable), and close the furnace humidifier damper, as this will not be needed until next heating season.
• Have central air-conditioning unit checked every two or three years. Clean debris and vegetation from the exterior condenser or heat pump.
• Check dehumidifier and clean if necessary (if applicable).
• Turn OFF gas furnace and fireplace pilot lights where possible.
• Have well water tested for quality (if applicable). It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months.
• If you are on a Septic system, have it pumped and inspected.
• Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms and replace batteries.
• Clean windows, screens and hardware, and replace storm windows with screens, if equipped with single pane windows. Check the windows for cracked or broken glass, loose putty around the glass panes, holes or bent frames in screens, and evidence of moisture between pane and storm windows. Clean out any slider door tracks and ensure that the drainage holes are clear.
• Open valve to outside hose connection after all danger of frost has passed.
• Examine the foundation walls for cracks, leaks or signs of moisture, and repair as required.
• Check to make sure your sump pump works properly by pouring water into the pump silo to raise the float and activate the motor. Ensure discharge pipe is connected and allows water to drain away from the foundation and inspect the hose line for obstructions or visible leaks.
• Re-level or repair any exterior steps or decks which moved or were damaged due to winter frost or settling.
• Check for damaged or improperly sloped gutters. Clean out all gutters and downspouts. Make sure they are free from leaks and rust and ensure all spikes, straps and clips are tightly fastened. Seal any loose joints and seams. Make sure downspouts are not damaged and carry all roof water at least five feet away from the foundation. Downspout extensions may improve any basement seepage conditions.
• Clear all drainage ditches and culverts of debris.

• Lubricate all door hinges and tighten screws as needed. Lubricate squeaky door hinges with lightweight machine oil. Free sticky doors by trimming edges or shimming hinges with thin pieces of cardboard.
• Check caulking around all sinks, bathtubs, and showers. Some types of caulking become brittle with age, and therefore useless as a water seal. Replace with a long-lasting resilient caulking material, such as silicone or latex.
• Vacuum bathroom fan grille.
• Monitor basement humidity and avoid relative humidity levels above 60 per cent. Use a dehumidifier to maintain safe relative humidity. Clean or replace air conditioning filter, and wash or replace ventilation system filters if necessary.
• Inspect the crawl space or basement walls after rains for water accumulation or excessive moisture. Look for signs of water damage on the sub floor and joists beneath bathrooms, the kitchen and laundry. Find and fix leaks now to reduce expensive costs later.
• Make sure all shut-offs are marked appropriately (heating, plumbing & electrical)
• If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, for example, a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap. This prevents sewer gases from entering the living area. You can use cooking oil to replace water, as it will not evaporate like water will. 
• Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water. Refill with water or cooking oil if necessary.
• Check security of all guardrails and handrails throughout house (interior and exterior). Install brackets or hardware if loose.
• Lubricate garage door hardware and ensure that it is operating properly and lubricate the automatic garage door opener motor, chain, etc. and ensure that the auto-reverse mechanism is properly adjusted. Make sure all bolts and screws are properly tightened and secured. It is recommend that the fire door between the garage and the house have an auto-closer installed.
• Check and replace damaged caulking and weather-stripping around all exterior windows and doors.
• Inspect electrical service lines for secure attachment where they enter your house, and make sure there is no water leakage into the house along the electrical conduit. Check the seal at the house penetration area.
• Ensure that the ground around your home slopes away from the foundation wall, so that rain water does not drain towards your basement walls. Soil should slope four to six inches for a distance of six feet out from the foundation walls.
• Inspect masonry foundation walls (inside and out) for cracks or weakened, crumbling mortar. Repair if necessary. Also check for signs of termite mud tunnels.
• Check exterior wood siding and trim for signs of deterioration such as peeling or cracked paint. Remove any wood/soil contact to prevent rot and wood boring insects. Clean, replace or refinish as needed. If you decide to repaint your house yourself, you can cut this job down to size by painting just one or two walls per year. Typically, the paint on the south and west-facing walls deteriorates faster and requires more frequent re-coating than paint on north or east-facing walls. Check for and seal off any holes in exterior cladding that could be an entry point for pests such as bats, mice, squirrels or Bees.
• Clean and seal decks. Ideally, you'll need three consecutive warm, sunny days.
• Repair and paint all fences as necessary.
• Remove or trim any plants, shrubs or vines that contact any house siding.
• Climb up on your roof or use binoculars, to check its general condition and note any sagging that could indicate structural problems requiring further investigation from inside the attic. Note the condition of roofing material for possible repair or replacement, and examine all roof flashings such as at the chimney, roof joints, vent stacks, dormers and skylights for any signs of cracking or leakage.
• Check the chimney cap and the mortar between all bricks. Tuck point between the bricks if necessary.
• If  you have access to attic spaces, check underneath the roof for stains that indicate leaks, especially from "flashed" areas. Tar these exterior flashing areas if necessary. Also, check all soffit vents to make sure insulation is pulled away from these areas. The attic area should always be the same temperature as the outside.
• Trim back tree branches that scrape against or overhang the roof. Keep branches away from chimney to avoid fire hazard and allow proper draft for safe and efficient chimney operation.
• Driveways and walks should be checked for cracks and deterioration. Settling which will result in surface water run off towards the house should be corrected as should uneven sections which pose a safety hazard to pedestrians.
• Clean and repair cracks in concrete driveways using epoxy patching material. Repair asphalt driveways using asphalt patching material. Seal asphalt driveways every other year.
• Repair any damaged steps that present a safety problem.

• Have all heating and cooling systems checked by a qualified serviceperson once a year or according to the manufacturer's warranty and service recommendations. Failure to do manufacturer-recommended servicing may void warranties.
• FURNACE: Examine the furnace fan belt for wear, looseness or noise; clean fan blades of any dirt buildup (after disconnecting the electricity to the motor). Then clean dirt and dust from around the air grills and ducts. Open furnace humidifier damper and clean humidifier (if equipped). Hire a licensed HVAC technician to inspect furnace at least once per year. The exhaust pipe should be checked for loose or corroded sections. Having your ducts cleaned at least every 5  years, will help to keep your furnace clean and will increase the life expectancy. Make sure any exposed ductwork have no cracks or leaks and seal any open seams with aluminum tape (not duct tape).
• BOILER: Bleed the air from hot water radiators. Older circulating pumps should be lubricated twice during the heating season. Expansion tanks should be drained annually. Have a licensed technician perform an annual check-up, to ensure proper settings and operation. 
• OIL FURNACES AND BOILERS: Oil systems should be checked by a qualified technician on an annual basis. Oily soot deposits at registers of forced-air systems may indicate a cracked heat exchanger. The exhaust pipe from the furnace or boiler should be checked for loose connections or corroded sections. The barometric damper on the exhaust pipe should rotate freely. The chimney clean out should be cleared of any debris. The oil tank should be inspected for leaks. Soot on the front of the furnace or boiler may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted.
• Check smooth functioning of all windows and lubricate as required. For single pane widows, remove or replace all screens with storm windows. Examine all hardware and locks on windows and doors, and lubricate moving parts. Each exterior door should have a one-inch deadbolt lock for safety.
• All yard care power equipment should be drained of fuel in the late fall or early winter and serviced according to manufacturer's instructions.
• Drain and store outdoor hoses. Close the valve supplying the outdoor hose connection and drain the hose bib (exterior faucet), unless your house contains frost proof hose bibs.
• Ensure that all smoke detectors, carbon monoxide detectors and fire extinguishers are in good working order. Replace batteries in appropriate devices as needed, or at least twice each year. Ontario Fire Regulations require detectors to be installed on every habitable level of your home and within 10 feet of any bedroom.
• Check gauge on all fire extinguishers; recharge or replace if necessary.
• Check fire escape routes, door and window locks and hardware, and lighting around outside of your house; ensure that your family has good security habits.
• Again, Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water. Refill with water or  cooking oil if necessary. (this slows the rate of evaporation)
• Take care of known issues with pipes that freeze. Heat tape/wire can be used to keep them warm during extremely cold weather or insulate to improve freezing conditions.
• Ensure that all doors to the outside shut tightly, and check other doors for ease of use. Renew door weather-stripping if required. If there is a door between your house and the garage, install or check the adjustment of the self-closing device to ensure it closes the door completely.
• Disconnect the duct connected to the dryer and vacuum lint from duct, the areas surrounding your clothes dryer and your dryers' vent hood outside.
• Clean leaves from eaves troughs (gutters) and roofs, and test downspouts to ensure proper drainage from the roof. Ensure that these downspouts carry all rain water away from the foundation area at least 5 feet. Downspout extensions may improve any basement seepage conditions.
• Check chimneys for obstructions such as nests. Have your wood burning fireplaces and appliances inspected annually and cleaned/swept and repaired as required to prevent chimney fires and carbon monoxide poisoning.
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• Clean or replace furnace air filters every other month during the heating season. Periodically check vents outside (intake and exhaust) to make sure they are not blocked by snow or debris. Then vacuum all heating supply registers, return grills, baseboards or radiators inside the home.
• After consulting your hot water tank owner's manual, carefully test the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure it is not stuck. (Caution: This test may release hot water that can cause burns and it may also cause the valve to develop a slow leak due to sediment build-up not allowing the valve to close fully. This will require a plumber to replace the TPR valve). In some areas, sludge may accumulate in the bottom of the tank. Draining approximately 1 gallon of water from the clean-out spigot at the bottom of your tank will indicate the presence of sludge and the necessity for regular draining to control sediment and maintain efficiency. Be sure to shut off the power or fuel supply before draining any water from the tank.
• Clean the humidifier (if equipped), two or three times during the winter season.
• Vacuum bathroom fan grille or any other registers you may have in your home. I recommend removing the register grills and vacuuming inside the duct work, (as far as possible). Vacuum all fire and smoke detectors, as dust or spider webs can prevent them from functioning. Dust ceiling fan blades.
• Vacuum radiator grilles on back of refrigerators and freezers, and empty and clean the condensate drip tray underneath the refrigerator.
• Check electrical cords, plugs and outlets for all indoor and outdoor seasonal lights to ensure fire safety: if worn, or plugs or cords feel warm to the touch, replace immediately. Check the operation of all GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) outlets by pushing the "test" button. The "reset" button should pop out, indicating the receptacle is operating properly. Press in the reset button. Check the AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupter) circuit breakers inside the main panel. Press the test button to make sure it trips. Then reset.

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